Rossiya by Eluned Gramich

Russia’s
number one train, the Rossiya, pulled into the Siberian village of Erofei
Pavlovich. The pale yellow rectangles of the carriage windows were the only
source of light in the midnight dark. There was no sign of the village of
Erofei Pavlovich. The walls of the station house blurred into the black sky so
that it seemed never-ending. Above its double-door, the word ‘Exit’ was
illuminated by the train’s headlights. Beyond the tracks, the world
stopped.
The Rossiya’s Russian passengers filed
out onto the platform. Kathryn burst out like a cat shooting through the back
door. Erin followed shuffling, her head heavy with sleep. Unlike the Russians,
who wore dressing gowns and old tracksuits, the two English travelers chose
tight jeans and lycra vests. The waitress and the cook had their black and
white uniforms; the conductor, naturally, wore his official badges and peaked
cap. The Rossiya let out a plume of smoke, a long sigh of relief after the
journey.
Erin wrapped her scarf around her neck.
She didn’t want to be outside in the cold: all that was Kathryn’s fault. She’d
insisted. Erin watched with barely concealed disapproval as Kathryn started on
her stretches: forward bends, lunges, reaching her thin arms towards the
clouds. It’s the middle of the night, for Christ’s sake, she thought.
“It’s so nice to be out in the fresh
air!” Kathryn exclaimed, her breath visible in the cold.
“It stinks of smoke,” Erin said. “And
it’s fucking freezing.”
The cook - a large woman who’d been in
and out of their cabin all day, trying to sell the last remaining roast chicken
- lit a cigarette. Then she lit one for the waitress, who took it without a
word and squatted on the platform. The tips of their cigarettes hung like
fireflies in the dark. No one spoke. After the noise of the train, the silence
was unsettling.
Kathryn started skipping, her breath
coming faster.
“Where do you think we are?” she
gasped.
“How should I know?”
Erin was nervous. Every night on the
train so far, she’d dreamed of being left behind on the platform. These dreams
were brutally vivid: the carriage door locked behind her, the freezing wind,
her screaming for the train to stop. Sometimes her mother would appear at the
window, waving goodbye, ignoring her daughter’s desperate cries.
A whistle blew. Erin started. “That’s
enough. I’m getting back on,” she said.
“But it’s not time to go back yet.”
“Did you check the timetable?”
“Yes.”
“But you always get it wrong.”
“Not true.”
“Remember,”
Erin sighed. “It’s Moscow time. It won’t be the same as what we think it is.”
“I checked. It’s a long stop this time.
Fifteen minutes at least.” Kathryn gestured towards the station house. “Let’s
go have a look.”
“No,” said Erin. “Don’t be
ridiculous.”
“Come on.”
“The train will go without us.”
Kathryn took a step back, teasing, her
smile half-concealed by the dark. Another step and Erin wouldn’t be able to
make out the colour of her clothes. Kathryn pressed, “Come on, come on.” She
was a tall girl: it gave her an advantage, Erin thought, towering over people,
overseeing everything. People who were blessed with stature could direct
activities and run away from them, as they liked. Of course, it helped that Kathryn
was beautiful—a fact strangers acknowledged in the street. Like a model, they
told her. Kathryn complained she was ‘gangly’, and moaned about being
flat-chested. To Erin, who barely reached five foot and whose skin hadn’t
improved since the age of thirteen, any complaint Kathryn made about her
appearance was an act of insulting false modesty.
“We’ll be stranded,” Erin warned. “I
heard it can happen... A guy at the hostel in Moscow told me. People sprinting
after the train when it’s already moving. Their passports still in the
compartment.”
“Yeah, right.”
“It won’t wait for anyone.”
“So what? They survived, didn’t they?”
“I don’t know. I didn’t ask what
happened to them.”
Kathryn rolled her eyes up at the sky,
muttering under her breath.
“What?” Erin demanded.
“Don’t be a coward,” she quickly
replied.
“I’m not a coward,” Erin insisted. She
glanced longingly at the train, wishing she could be inside; imagining an
onward journey of studied solitude: silence and calm. She was anxious for
Kathryn to leave. The train manager stood watching them with his fingers curled
around a pocket watch. Erin gestured at it. The conductor peered at the clock’s
round-face before solemnly spreading his fingers to indicate the time they had
left.
“Just ten minutes,” she translated. The
conductor nodded.
“Ten minutes!” Kathryn turned on her
heels. “I bet there’s a shop. We can get beers.”
“You go.”
“Come with me.”
“No, go without me.”
They hadn’t bought anything to drink or
eat for the last three days. They had the polystyrene packaged meal at 12
o’clock Moscow time from the train kitchen, which they could barely eat. After
that, there was hot water from the samovar served pure. The promise of beer
tempted Erin, but still she couldn’t bear to be separated from the train.
Neither, at this moment, could she bear to be around Kathryn: her constant
needling voice pricked Erin’s nerves.
“All my things are on the train,” she
said.
“So are mine.”
There was a sudden crash as a young
family further down the platform closed a carriage door with force. Their baby
began to cry; a whine quickly transforming into full-blown sobs. Erin winced.
What was ten minutes here, in this complete darkness? she thought. They might
forget how long they were away for, misjudge the distance, lose their way.
There was knowing what was waiting there across the tracks
“For God’s sake, Erin.”
The baby reached a crescendo of
desperate screams, sending a shoot of pain through Erin’s head. “Just go, will
you?” she snapped. “Go on. Piss off.”
Kathryn shrugged, turned and ran off,
swiftly pulling herself up onto the opposite platform, her body unfurling in
the direction of the ticket counter like the stem of some long flower.
A moment later and she was gone.
The waitress coughed loudly. The noise
made Erin jump. “Sorry,” she muttered. The waitress squinted at her.
*
They’d known each other from childhood. The primary school where
they were desk-sharers, pencil-stealers, hop-scotchers, and the masters of elaborate
games. When one yawned, the other followed. When one of them was sick, the
other caught it. Even when they grew up, attending the same secondary school,
they continued to lie in each other’s beds, and tip-toe around each other’s
family homes like tolerated stray-cats. In the darkness of the long sleepover
that made up their childhood, they whispered secrets to each other, close and
quiet and honest. Erin would carry those secrets through to adulthood; words
she could never forget, because they were so sincere and innocent, so different
from anything she said now. One night, Kathryn told Erin she knew she was going
to die. And there was nothing she could do to stop it. She was in her sleeping
bag, her breath warm against Erin’s cheek. The whites of her eyes visible in
the dark. Kathryn asked, “What happens after we die?” Erin knew there was
nothing after death because her mother had said so. Erin was too young to
understand; the fear of death hadn’t reached her yet. So she answered casually,
callously, in a way she came to regret: “We just die. That’s it.” Kathryn fell
silent. Only a long time afterwards did Erin realise that she too would not be
excluded from death.
There’s no way of
escaping, Erin thought, no way of escaping their childhood selves. They knew
too much: bound to each other by a long-acquired knowledge. If Kathryn, an
artist, spoke about her work to a group of journalists, Erin immediately
thought of her as a teenager: her tantrums - kicking the desk, tearing up exam
papers that didn’t go well. If Erin, a doctor, offered medical advice to
friends, Kathryn recalled the time Erin ate too many chocolates and threw up on
her mother’s Bohemian silk cushions. Within the net of their friendship,
growing up just wasn’t possible.
Erin was ambitious
– she wanted to be forceful, precise, competent. Now that her mother was dead,
this necessity for self-improvement became more urgent. After the funeral, the
first thing she decided to do was go on holiday. To escape. Her mother would
have told her to go to the beach, but Erin didn’t want to go anywhere which may
have reminded her of her mother. She wanted to be alone; prove she didn’t need
anyone. She wanted to run away from the old, childish Erin.
Kathryn didn’t
agree with these plans. She explained, “I need to travel too. Broaden my
horizons.” It was raining that day, Erin remembered. The weather had been so
awful and she’d been grateful for the tickets to Moscow filed away in her
bedside cabinet. Standing in the little kitchen, Kathryn poured a coffee for
herself, stirring the sugar with her finger. She grew thoughtful, as if Erin
had asked her along on the trip and was now waiting for her answer.
“When are you
leaving?” Kathryn wanted to know.
That was when
Erin made the mistake of telling her.
*
The
conductor raised his right hand, like a Roman emperor hailing an audience. Five
minutes.
Erin began to pace. A habit which
failed to calm her nerves. Instead it triggered memories of the times she’d set
to pacing in the past. Pacing in airports to assuage her fear of flying. In the
hospital corridors when her mother was sick. Kathryn, on the other hand, didn’t
pace. In moments of stress, she simply vanished. Another quality Erin coveted
apart from her beauty: this talent for abandonment.
When Erin drove two hours every night
to the hospital, with towels and underwear hastily shoved in a plastic bag, it
was a young nurse - tall like Kathryn, although less striking - who came and
helped Erin change her mother’s clothes. When Erin sat in the car on the way
back, and cried in floods of self-pity because she knew she’d be an orphan at
twenty-six, it was the radio presenter who comforted her with a joke. When Erin
helped her mother to the commode four times a night, it was Kathryn’s answer
machine who listened to her messages in the early hours of the morning.
Kathryn had said, once, “I don’t do
hospitals.” Erin laughed at the time. Later, when she waited in the car park
for the coffee and painkillers to kick in before the drive home, the phrase
echoed round her head. I don’t do hospitals, she repeated to herself. I don’t
do hospitals. Who does? Even her mother, who stayed in one long enough to know
the names of all the nurses on her ward wanted to go home as soon as possible.
Home, in the end, was Erin’s single bed in her Hackney flat; Erin slept on the
sofa, when she managed to sleep at all.
Her mother used to say, on the days she
was feeling better, “Why don’t you go out? I can manage.” But Erin didn’t want
to go out. She was too lonely to go outside into the world of other people’s
friendships.
*
In Russia,
smiling is considered insincere, possibly even dangerous. Superfluous smiling
is a mark of a spy, or someone who wants to trick you out of your money. This
information, provided by a cheap travel guide, comforted Erin, who hadn’t felt
like smiling in a long time. The taut, suspicious faces of their fellow
passengers created the perfect setting for Erin’s soul-searching. No
distractions. No small-talk. Just the mnemonic sound of the train rolling on
the tracks. And the tundra speeding past in its yawning monotony. Most of the
time, she slept, and every time she woke, she looked forward to sleeping again.
“God I’m bored.” Kathryn swung her feet
from the top bunk. “I’ll go get tea, shall I? And where’s that woman with
lunch?”
As she climbed down, she accidentally
kicked Erin’s books from the folding table. Standing with her hands on her
hips, she dominated the space.
“Here you go,” Kathryn said, coming
back with two steaming cups of hot water. “Well,” she continued, “aren’t you
drinking the tea I made?”
“Not now.”
“Waiting until it’s cold, is it?”
“Later.” Erin turned to face the wall,
hugging her knees to her chest. She felt her friend’s eyes on her back.
“Erin.”
“I want to sleep for a bit longer.”
“Erin, seriously, that’s all you do.”
She heard Kathryn slump onto the seat. The silence grew tense. She sensed
Kathryn deliberating whether to give up or go on.
“Are you alright?” Kathryn managed.
“Yes.” Erin reluctantly opened her
eyes. The slats on the bunk above were covered in graffiti.
“Well,” said Kathryn. “If you’re sure.”
“Really, I’m fine. I just need to
rest.”
“Are you annoyed with me?”
“Annoyed?”
Kathryn had come to the funeral. Every
time Erin feels she might be brave enough to talk about the betrayal: she has
to remember that day. At the wake, Erin locked herself in her room and refused
to go downstairs. It was the sudden arrival of all those people she hadn’t seen
in so long. Relatives who’d failed to visit her mother when she was most
desperate. The aunts and uncles and Kathryn too: she wanted to tell them all,
you’re too late! You should have seen her when she was alive, not now she’s
dead. The anger translated into a fit of coughing and crying. She ran to her
room and threw herself on her bed as if she was thirteen again. The smell of
coffee and toast from downstairs pervaded the room. Kathryn knocked on her
door, tried to persuade her to come eat. Erin continued to sob; her head buried
in a pillow. Kathryn knelt down and stroked her hair. Please come downstairs,
she said. At the sound of her voice, which was uncharacteristically soft and
quiet, Erin looked up. Kathryn’s dark skin was flushed red, her eyelashes wet,
and a line of snot hung from her left nostril. She wiped it with the back of
her hand. Come downstairs. Erin obeyed. It was a long time since she’d seen
Kathryn cry. The two women washed their faces and sat on the edge of the bath
together, preparing themselves. Kathryn held Erin’s hand. I still have the set
of watercolours she gave me when we were on holiday, do you remember? Erin
nodded. I was nine years old. She showed me how to use them. How much paint to
water. We were in Cornwall and the first thing I painted was the sea. Kathryn
spent the rest of the afternoon close by, touching Erin’s arm, the small of her
back, lightly, comfortingly. She helped her through awkward conversations;
steered her away from people she didn’t want to see. In that single afternoon
of the wake, Erin was so grateful to her friend she almost forgave her
everything.
“Well? Are you annoyed with me?”
Kathryn repeated.
“I’m not.”
“I notice you don’t speak to me
anymore.” Kathryn’s expression was tired, melancholic.
“Really?” Erin managed.
“If you didn’t want me to come, you
should have said...”
There was a knock on the compartment
door. The cook appeared with the polystyrene boxes. It smelled strongly of
boiled fish.
“I’m starving,” said Erin quickly,
opening her lunch. Inside, the fish’s flesh inside was yellow. Peas floated in
green a pool of water.
“Disgusting,” said Kathryn, tossing it
to one side. “I can’t wait until we get some real food.”
*
Without
speaking, the passengers of the Rossiya prepare themselves for the onward
journey; The cook kicks her cigarette stub under the train. The waitress rises
slowly from her squat. Passengers stamp their feet, brush the biscuit crumbs
from their jackets; alighting in silence, like a procession of solemn
choirboys. And the conductor, like a priest bestowing his benediction, holds up
his right forefinger. One minute left.
Erin’s heart beats rapidly; her pacing
grows frenetic. There is still no sign of Kathryn. She walks back and forth,
back and forth, skirting the edges of the platform. The dark is impenetrable.
The conductor raises a stern finger
again. One minute.
“Wait!” she cries. “We’re missing
someone!”
He lowers his arm. The ghost of his
pale finger remains suspended in the darkness. There is no arguing with Moscow
time.
Erin spins around and begins to
scream.She is so loud, so wild, she can hardly hear her own voice. Blood pumps
in her ears. The baby started to cry again, but Erin’s screams drowns them out:
“KATHRYN!”
Her thoughts race through possible
scenarios: a flickering picture book of horror. She sees herself alone on the
train: safe and warm, her passport in hand. I must get on the train, she
thinks. I have to leave her. Then another image: Kathryn alone on the platform,
desperately beating at the windows; Kathryn attacked, weeping, beaten, robbed
in some lightless cell; Kathryn on the street with nothing, anonymous and
abandoned. And Erin imagines herself, profile illuminated in the train window,
calmly waving goodbye.
Panic transforms into a prickling pain,
running down her arms and legs. She sobs breathlessly. Oh god, what if she’s
dead? She whispers, I can’t lose another one.
A whistle slices through her cries.
People are laughing at her from the train. Someone shouts, mimicking “Kathryn!
Kathryn!” in a high-pitched voice, making faces through the window.
“Kathryn,” she murmurs.
Finally, as the conductor moves to lock
the carriage door, she returns. She pulls herself up onto the platform, towards
the piercing light of the train. She extends an arm, and Erin catches it, and
they are children again, clutching each other in the close dark of a long
sleepover.